Ever been so utterly enchanted with something that you lose track of time?
If not, then I implore you to book a winter flight from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq – and by god, make sure you have the window seat.
After a pleasant four-hour flight (Air Greenland – you bloody rock) it was time to descend into the major airport hub for Greenland – Kangerlussuaq. During my last trip to Greenland, my time in planes was spent iceberg spotting, but this time, all I could see was a seemingly endless sheet of ice. The way the sun rose over the ice cap and the natural valley of the tiny town was the kind of beautiful that no words can describe. Utterly magical is about as close as I can think of. It was so bloody gorgeous that I didn’t take pictures of it. Taking pictures would require me to get my camera out, and doing that would require me to take my eyes away from the view out the window, and honestly, that just was not an option.
Finally, I had come back to my most favourite country on Earth.
Finally, I was home again.
As I stepped off the plane into the -39°C arctic tundra (although it felt like -51°C with wind chill – at least according to my weather app) I couldn’t tear the smile from my face. Even the instant headache that one gets with the shock of being exposed to such an extreme temperature couldn’t get me down, and it wore off after a few minutes anyway.
I quickly picked up my backpack, walked to my nearby lodgings and rugged myself up before going off to do a little exploring.
If you have never experienced such extreme temperatures, let me say that it isn’t as unpleasant as it sounds. Sure, your eyelashes, eyebrows and hair all go white with frost, and yes, your nose will run like a tap, and yeah, if you take your hands out of your gloves for more than thirty seconds it will be downright painful; but overall, if you have the right gear, it really isn’t that bad.
However, as the mercury drops, be prepared for your photographic equipment to feel the struggle. My poor 7-14mm lens started completely freezing, and my iPhone got so cold that I couldn’t lock the damn thing – the button had frozen solid! Once inside everything defrosts back to normal – but it takes a bit of time to work out how much your gear can handle, and ways to help it go that extra mile.
After some morning exploring and an afternoon nap (jetlag is a cruel mistress) it was time for me to head out with World of Greenland Arctic Circle and see if I could find some Northern Lights.
Unfortunately, the weather gods decided to make the skies so cloudy that I couldn’t even make out stars, so I knew from the get-go that I was not going to see the Aurora.
I was prepared to just head back to the Polar Lodge and hit the hay, but my tour guide had other ideas. I was the only one on the tour and he was an attractive young Danish guy – now, if you have been following this blog since the last Greenland series, then this story might sound eerily familiar.
I mean seriously, why is it that I can go months in Australia without a guy so much as offering to buy me a drink, but I can’t be in Greenland for more than 5 minutes before a Danish guy asks me to ‘hang out’?
Mr Danish Tour Guide #2 and I ended up just talking and driving around the town for a bit. We said hello to some big sledge dogs, drove up a hill to see the town from above, and visited the Kangerlussuaq Museum after hours.
It ended up being a rather fun evening, and I learnt a tonne about the towns history. At first glance, one could mistake Kangerlussuaq for being nothing more than an airport with a few things built around it – but in reality, it is so much more than that.
For example, I had no idea that Kangerlussuaq is home to a military base that was built by the US during the second world war. The Americans needed a place to stop and refuel their planes en route to Germany, and Kangerlussuaq was a perfect place to do so. The town is built in a natural kind of valley, and as such, it is extremely rare to get weather conditions that would prevent planes from being able to land.
In the 1990’s The United States ended up selling this military base back to the people of Greenland for the very reasonable price of $1 – but this was only on the condition that at any time the US military could return to Greenland and reinhabit the base – should a need arise.
Eventually I became rather tuckered out, so Mr Danish Tour Guide drove me back to my hotel – I needed a good nights sleep so that I had the energy to go and explore the Greenland ice cap the next day!
THE LOWDOWN
Getting to Kangerlussuaq: Air Greenland flies directly from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq all year round, a one way flight will set you back approximately $500
Getting out of the Airport: Most accommodation is within walking distance, however the cheapest accommodation (Old Camp) is a fair hike – contact them to arrange a pick up if this is where you plan on staying
Polar Lodge: A no frills option that is kinda a blend of a hostel and hotel. It may be a little rundown, but it is kept well warmed and the beds are comfy. A single room will set you back $190/night
Camera: Images captured with an Olympus OM-D E-M1 in conjunction with M.Zuiko 12-40mm f2/8 lens and M.Zuiko 7-14mm f2/8 lens
Northern Lights Tour: Run by World of Greenland Arctic Circle, click here to learn more
Remember: Kangerlussuaq is further inland than many of the coastal towns in Greenland, and it gets bloody cold! Be prepared to rug up.
Looks like a wonderful experience. Maybe you need Marks & Spencer thermals 🙂
Hahaha my Kathmandu ones are pretty amazing, I just think once it hits -41 there isn’t such a thing as being “warm”!
So beautiful! But I can’t imagine being outdoors at that kind of temperature. Ideal situation for me would be to enjoy the nature from the warmth inside a moving vehicle 🙂
It certainly is a shock to the senses, but it isn’t as bad as you think it would be!
Why so expensive 🙁
Because not enough people go! I’m sure if the demand was higher the price would drop a bit!
Beautiful !!!! Nothing more to say,😄and I really do envy you 😀
Thank you so much! I hope you can experience it for yourself one day 🙂
I love flying above the clouds and seeing the sun rise when flying. I can only imagine how beautiful the sun was over the ice. I had no idea that the U.S. had a military base there. Thanks for sharing and enjoy your holiday!
Me too, it is such a wonderful sight 🙂 Thanks for reading and commenting!
So glad you like this kind of weather. Reading about your joy in it is as close as I want to get. So much nope!
But I can enjoy it vicariously from Florida by reading your blog!
Hahaha I must admit, as much as I love it I know that it is not for everyone!
last night the olive oil froze in my kitchen and it is not even scenic outside
Hahahahaha this is one of my favourite comments ever!
Great post, enjoying this as I’m planning a trip to Greenland for a slightly warmer time of year (late summer).
Nice! Are you headed there this year?
Yes, thinking of visiting in August
Definitely on my bucket list!!
This sounds/looks incredible! I have never been in temps lower than -15C, which was bad enough. I wasn’t at all prepared for that kind of weather, though. I live in an area with a mild winter climate, so I’m not equipped with the right gear. Do you have any specific gear/brand recommendations for a first time traveler to extreme temps? I would love to do a Greenland trip, or Iceland, in the winter, to possibly see the Northern Lights.
Hi Aubrey – I actually wrote a whole post about dressing for an arctic climate – I hope you find it helpful!
https://travellingtheworldsolo.com/2017/02/16/packing-list-winter-in-the-arctic/
Sounds great so far, lovely place and good company you found. Have fun.
I saw Greenland from the plane to the US over Christmas, and I am so jealous that you get to live it. It’s really high on my bucket list! Enjoy!
Awesome! Any plans to go soon?
I wish! I don’t have the money…one day though.
Wow! I loved reading this!! Your blog makes me excited to be alive 😎🦄⚡️
Wow thank you so much Em! That is so lovely to hear 🙂
It looks lovely, but far too cold for me. The sky on the last photo is absolutely gorgeous 🙂
Noooo! Brave the cold – it is so worth it!
Loved it. You opened up an unknown world for me. You are truly gutsy. 😊
Thanks so much Shireen, it really is a beautiful country!
Love this post! I just got back from Iceland, where it wasn’t nearly as cold and no Northern Lights last week due to cloudiness. Thinking about doing another northern trip soon, and you’ve just put Greenland on the map for me! 🙂
Awesome to hear that you are considering Greenland – less awesome about all those clouds! Fingers crossed next time you have better luck 🙂
That says a lot about a country, when even the airport hub is fascinating!
Wonderful trip, fabulous photo’s. Thank you for sharing your travels.
Well, that’s it. Now I want to go to Greenland, although I have since I was in college. You have become by favorite on WordPress. I always love your photos and your stories. You always inject some humor as well, which makes for more fun reading. Thanks again for the wonderful photos and adventures.
Wow thank you so much Timothy, this was a lovely comment to receive! Thanks for reading, I look forward to sharing many more adventures with you.