There was a huge bunch of stuff that attracted me to Iran. I was interested in exploring the architecture, relaxing in the city gardens and being exposed to the wonderful Persian hospitality that I had heard so much about.
But if I am being honest, I must admit that my main motivation for travelling to Iran was to visit Nasir ol Molk – the site more commonly referred to as ‘the Pink Mosque’.
So what is the Pink Mosque?
From the outside, this building appears much like many other Persian mosques, but it houses a lot more than meets the eye.
Construction of Nasir ol Molk commenced in 1876 as per the order of Mirza Hasan Ali Nasir al Molk – one of the famous lords of the Qajar Dynasty. Designed by Muhammad Hasan-e-Memar and Muhammad Reza Kashi Paz-e-Shirazi, construction was completed in 1888.
So what is is that makes the Pink Mosque so special?
Well, if you visit in the morning, it will light up your life – quite literally!
When this mosque was built, the placement of the large stained glass windows and doors was made to allow the morning sunlight to hit said glass and brilliantly illuminate this other-worldly mosque.
I first learned about this mosque several years ago, and ever since then, a visit to Iran has become an inevitability. I couldn’t wait to marvel at the colours, the glass and the domed ceilings. I couldn’t wait to see this truly awe-inspiring place with my very own eyes.
Now, with such high expectations, one does worry that a place will not be as lovely in person and that it could cause disappointment, but lucky for me, this was not the case.
The Pink Mosque was everything I had hoped it to be, and even a little bit more.
So now, lets talk logistics.
If you plan to visit Iran in the near future and think that a visit to the Pink Mosque is simply unmissable, then there are a few things you should know.
Firstly, timing is everything.
You will want to aim to arrive at the mosque by around 7.30am, but the absolute best lighting is between 8.30am and 9am.
So why arrive early?
Well, getting a stunning photo at this mosque doesn’t exactly happen by accident.
Shooting with auto-mode will look okay, but if you really want to capture the mosque at its absolute best, then some adjustments to the shutter speed, ISO and aperture functions will definitely be required. Getting there early gives you a little bit of extra time to play with your settings and make adjustments so that you are ready and raring to go when the best light hits.
However, just because there is only a small window of “best light” doesn’t mean that the lighting outside of this time isn’t worth staying for. I stayed at the Pink Mosque until around 10am as the lighting stayed absolutely beautiful until that time.
Furthermore, if you want to get photographs with yourself in them, try to do so outside of that golden window of “best light”, as this means you won’t be in the way for other people and potentially invading on their photographic endeavors.
Secondly, unless you are a wizard who just downed a vial of felix felicis (liquid luck for my non Harry Potter enthusiast readers) it is highly unlikely that you will get to explore the mosque without anyone else around.
Despite Iran not being one of the more touristy countries that I have visited, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t tourists! On the morning I visited Nasir ol Molk, I shared the mosque with around 20 or so other people, and as a result, had to be a little bit, er, brutal.
Unfortunately, quite a number of these tourists were either complete idiots or just downright rude, and as a result, in order for people to take photographs without anyone else in them, a bit of herding and verbal persuasion was required.
Through herding, my new travel buddy Hayden and I were able to get most people to one end of the mosque (so that people could take the most beautiful people possible) but a few people just did not get the hint.
After politely asking a couple (who were sitting almost smack bang in the middle of the photograph and just looking at the photos they had already taken) to move and having absolutely no luck. My frustration got the best of me and I ended up saying something to the effect of “you are ruining everyone’s photos – move.”
Possibly not the best way to have handled such a situation, but it got the job done and everybody else seemed pretty grateful!
Lastly, entry to Nasir ol Molk is open from Saturday to Wednesday and closed on Thursday and Friday. The official opening hours are listed as 8am-11.30am and 2.30pm-5.30pm but people have been known to be able to gain entry to the mosque as early as 7am.
Entrance will set you back 150,000 rials (approx $6 AUD) which is actually cheaper than the entrance fees for most attractions in Iran.
In terms of appropriate dress, women are not required to wear a chador – regular Iranian dress codes apply.
If these photos haven’t convinced you to add the Pink Mosque to your bucket list, I honestly do not know what will! But in all seriousness, if you have any opportunity to visit Shiraz and Nasir ol Molk, I urge you, please do it, you most certainly wouldn’t regret it.
THE LOWDOWN
Getting to Shiraz: Turkish Airlines fly between Shiraz and Istanbul regularly
Niyayesh Boutique Hotel: A cheap hotel with a few mixed dorms, expect to pay around $12/night
Nasir ol Molk Mosque: Entrance to the mosque costs 150,000 rials
Dress Code: Men get to wear whatever they want (lucky bastards) women will need to wear a hijab and loose clothing
Camera: Images captured with an Olympus OM-D E-M1 in conjunction with M.Zuiko 12-40mm f2/8 lens
Remember: Everyone visiting the mosque will want the opportunity to take beautiful photographs, so be respectful to others
Beautiful
Why does entrance to Masjid cost?
150,000 rials
I asked why
Those pictures are stunning. Excellent work, I’m completely jealous.
Thank you so much, it is a pretty wonderful place to photograph 🙂
Wow I’ve never heard of this before but it looks so magical! Another thing to add to my list haha…..
If you’re interested check out my Bucket List Activities:
https://earthsmagicalplaces.com/2017/04/27/my-bucket-list-top-5-travel-activities/
That’s the thing about bucket lists, they are always growing!
These photos are absolutely mind blowing. The word “stunning” doesn’t do them justice. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you so much Travelgarb, I love to get such positive comments!
That looks amazing! The lighting reminds me of Sagrada Familia.
I can see that! Sagrada is one of the few things I loved about Barca!
WOW! This place looks breath taking!! I am adding this to my bucket list straight away, it is the prettiest thing I have ever seen
AWESOME! I hope you get to see it in person one day very soon!
Just outstanding, beautiful photos
Thanks Terry 🙂
that lighting is incredible, and beautifully captured! 🙂
Thank you so much! The longer exposures definitely helped capture it properly.
We have a lot of old stained glass in British churches yet I cannot think I’ve ever seen a photo of it depicted like this. Maybe we don’t get the light? Maybe our churches are facing the wrong way? Maybe we just don’t have the internal set-up to give such an artistic show? Yours look like one of those modern set-ups where they use animated projections to light up the outside of a building.
My first thought of the Iran glass was “modern and garish” because you wouldn’t get such bright colours here and with our big displays they all depict historical/religious scenes and there’s a lot of hand-paining that goes on top.
I wouldn’t dare recommend anything to you, after your past disappointment/boredom with Britain, but if you ever want to contrast the Iran windows then York Minster has a massive amount of Medieval stained glass. Although looking at pictures of it now it just looks so dark compared to where you are.
Really? Garish? I think they are stunning!
I am sure I will revisit England one day, and when I do I will make sure to visit York Minster!
Yeah, but don’t take it the wrong way. I’ve been looking a lot lately (hope to write a book about it one day) about our surviving local customs, looking back to paganism, and how some modern aspects of these revivals I feel detract and aren’t “proper”, and in the same way our stained glass is all more like dirty faded watercolours in comparison.
Interesting thought. I don’t know if I necessarily see things the same way, but your point of view is certainly a thought provoking one.
I should stress that this is from a British point of view, talking about British culture, and I’m pretty sure our lot couldn’t have got those colours a few hundred years ago if they’d tried.
I see now your Mosque was completed in 1888 so it has age, but yet doesn’t look aged. The Middle East is from what I see a whole not more colourful generally so I’m not doing them – or your experiences – down, just saying that they would look out of place here.
I hope I’ve redeemed myself in your (and Iranian) eyes.
Stunning! I notice you don’t have your hair completely covered – are things a bit more relaxed now?
Yeah they are, in most places women can show a small amount of their hair, and in some of the bigger cities they have more hair uncovered than covered! In some mosques things are more conservative, but you are politely asked to cover more of your hair if this is the case.
So gorgeous!!
Thank you! 🙂
I’m adding it to my bucketlist now haha
Cheers,
Michelle
Michellefranclee.com
Haha then my work is done!
Absolutely lovely.
Thank you Monique 🙂
That light and those colours are absolutely amazing!
The Pink Mosque will most assuredly be one of the places I visit first, WHEN I go to Shiraz, and other cities sacred to us Baha’is.
What wonderful colors in those pictures. Almost like a 60’s hippy trip only much better. I am not big on crowds and understand your frustration. Thankfully you had seen and shared something I can only dream of. Stay safe in your travels.
Good to hear! I like the use of ‘when’ and not ‘if’ 🙂
Thank you for those beautiful photo’s and honest stories. I am not a crowd person and can identify with your
frustration. Thankfully you had a wonderful experience; stay safe during all your travels. EChumly
Wow! Your photos are stunning!
Beautiful.
Oh wow. It’s so colourful and beautiful. I want to visit!
Do it! No time like the present 🙂
Amazing!! I had recently seen a 360 degree photo of this mosque and kept scrolling it up and down right and left for a long time. Couldn’t get enough of it!
This was a stunning and an extremely informative post! Thanks 😊
Oh awesome! I will have to try and find that 360 degree photo! I am intrigued 🙂
These pictures are literally blowing my mind! Well done for the patience and preparation. I totally agree about some people just not being considerate, it really gets to me! You just need to be a bit firm so don’t worry – you haven’t accumulated bad karma or anything, probably you’ve just avoided someone else making a much ess tasteful scene 🙂
I hadn’t thought of it that way… I like your point of view, it has made me feel better about being so firm!
Amazing times 100!
Iran is spectacular I have to say it again!
Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful experience!
Thank you so much Dacian, it certainly is an incredible country!
Beautiful!!!
ADDED! I am in love with those windows <3
YES! That is what I like to hear 🙂
Utterly beautiful!
Reblogged this on SAFAR.
Wow! It’s stunning; love the pictures!
Thank you so much Brenda 🙂
Those photos are gorgeous! Will definitely add this to my list of travel destinations!
Yes! I hope you get to Iran one day soon 🙂
What amazing use of stained glass. Some amazing photos in there.
It is quite inspired architecture isn’t it?
Sure is. Seeing things like that is one of the things that makes following blogs worthwhile.
Beautiful!
Love your posts of Iran! Definitely makes me want to go there.
Thanks so much Brittney! These are the comments I love to get!
How beautiful! And props to being direct with people — I absolutely hate people who hog photo ops.
Wow! That is so beautiful! I’d have a field day taking pictures there 🙂
Oh my god Ellen, these photos are off-the-charts amazing!!! Well done and thanks for sharing!
Your photographs are absolutely stunning! I have several students who are Iranian and they make me want to visit their country–but your writing and pictures have convinced me to go someday. Thanks for sharing!
Stunning! Thanks for sharing this!
Beautiful reflections.